The Complete Guide to Ant Farming

Outline

This document describes breeding methods for enthusiasts, not professional breeders. If you're looking to properly raise ants, this document is incomplete and insufficient. Therefore, we recommend consulting the reference sites listed below. Furthermore, understanding ants themselves is crucial, so we recommend reading the ant documentation as well.

This document describes how to raise ants. Keeping ants is essentially as simple as providing adequate moisture, minimizing vibration and light, and providing adequate food. Unless you purchase ants from an online cafe or retailer, you'll need to create your own enclosure and collect them yourself, which increases the difficulty level.

The most important thing is to cultivate ants yourself, gaining valuable knowledge through hands-on experience.

Characteristics as a pet

Ants differ from other pets in that they live in colonies, sometimes numbering hundreds or even thousands. The biggest difference is that they are raised as a group, not as an individual. In short, you're responsible for an entire city... As ants form a society, they divide up responsibilities, engage in group hunting, and once the nest grows to a certain size, they even collect and dispose of waste on their own. Ant farming offers a valuable opportunity to directly observe the ecology of social creatures other than humans.

The allure of ants lies in the fact that watching them work together to care for eggs and larvae and forage for food can be quite captivating. It's fascinating to see them wriggling together, and some even have adorable faces.

Because they are small, they pose a risk of escape. Smaller species are particularly prone to escape than larger ones. Since colonies are centered around a queen, the escape of a few worker ants poses little risk. Even if the queen ant escapes entirely, excluding domestic ants like the stray ants, ghost ants, crazy ants, and black-tailed ants, they generally prefer the outdoors over human nests. Therefore, even if they wander around a bit at first, they will eventually find their way out and settle outside. Be careful not to let them escape.

The most challenging aspects of raising ants are building and maintaining a cage, as well as collecting them.

Life

Worker ants live from one month to one year for small species, and from six months to 2.5 years for large species. For queens, the average lifespan is six months for female ants, five years for small species, and 10 to 15 years for large species. The longest-lived ant queen in a laboratory is 28 years. The lifespan of the colony, or queen ant, is more important than the individual ants themselves. You wouldn't want to raise just one ant.

Ant colonies are divided into monocotyledons with one queen and polycotyledons with two or more queens. In monocotyledons, the death of the queen causes the colony to lose its ability to lay eggs, ending its lifespan. While some species of foreign ants, such as the Indian jumping ant, are known to have worker and male ants mating, this has not been properly documented in Korean species.

Interestingly, even within the same colony, if separated for extended periods of time, they treat each other as enemies. For example, even if a princess ant from colony A establishes colony B, merging the two colonies will result in fighting.

Even if all queens die, the remaining ants won't split. If you feel sorry for them, you can raise them until the last one dies. Small species can survive for a few months.

Multiple colonies have two or more queens. Even if one dies, the other queens will survive, so the colony will still survive, though its size will decrease. Some small species, such as the dwarf ant, Chinese house ant, or small house ant (mainly small ant species), can have indefinite colonies because male ants from the same colony fertilize the princess ants without a nuptial flight, resulting in a new queen. This is rare for the Far Eastern dwarf ant. Dwarf ants, in particular, show no genetic defects even when inbred. Therefore, even if they start with a single queen, given the right environment, they can theoretically multiply indefinitely. The web-backed ant is a unique case, with worker ants laying eggs.

Types of pens and management methods by type

Ant cages are typically available online, but they can be expensive, so some people choose to build them themselves.

The size and setup of the cage required varies greatly depending on factors such as the size of the ant species, the size of the colony, and its habits. Because the market is small, the variety of cages available is limited. Some people make and sell homemade cages, but this is often cheaper.

• Small colonies and common plaster enclosures
  
• Three-dimensional plaster enclosure
  
• Acrylic enclosure without any plaster add
  

Paper breeding

This method is recommended for beginners because it's simple: just tear off a piece of toilet paper, soak it in water, wring it out until it stops dripping, and place it in the enclosure. It's recommended for beginners because it doesn't require you to stuff the tissue tightly into the enclosure, but only enough to provide moisture. However, in most cases, transparent plastic containers are used, which are advantageous for observation and cost. This exposes the ants to the open air, which can be stressful. Ensure that any light is blocked at all costs. Many people tear off tissue paper to create cells or attach it to walls. Mold growth is also more common in these enclosures than in other types of enclosures, so extra care is needed.

Use colorless, odorless tissues, not scented or patterned ones.

Soil

The most ideal form of soil cultivation.

While it's more difficult to manage than other breeding methods, if done correctly, it's the perfect breeding medium for ants. It produces a massive egg production and a significant number of worker ants. However, it also carries significant risks. Natural soil, thanks to its sunlight, adequate rainfall, and the ability to regulate humidity underground, provides optimal living conditions for ants. However, soil inside a breeding container lacks ventilation and humidity control, making it prone to mold and pest growth, often damaging the colony. This makes it a high-risk, high-return breeding method. Therefore, it's not recommended for beginners, but is occasionally adopted by enthusiasts for personal satisfaction.

While observing the interior may be difficult without using a slim container, it reduces stress on the ants. The abundance of worker ants makes watching them forage for food quite enjoyable. However, adding soil alone can cause the soil to collapse, crushing the ants. For safety, mixing it with a slightly viscous red clay and maintaining proper humidity control to maintain soil cohesion is recommended. Planting plants also reduces the risk of the nest collapsing by supporting the soil with their roots. In nature, nests are often built between plant roots.

Floral foam, a common horticultural material, can be used instead of soil. It's easier to manage than soil, has virtually no risk of being crushed, and, from the ants' perspective, has characteristics somewhat similar to soil. Observation is difficult, but productivity is high. Simply soak the oasis in water until no bubbles appear, then wipe the excess water off with a paper towel and place it in the nest. However, oasis contains harmful substances like formaldehyde. It was not intended for insect breeding. The manufacturer's material safety data sheet states that it can cause irritation on human skin and requires the use of eyeglasses, a mask, and gloves. However, many oasis products are harmless to humans, so ask a florist or other store about their safety.

plaster cage

This is the most common and representative method of ant farming. Even if plaster is used, a frame is needed to support the plaster, and in nine cases out of ten, acrylic frames are used. The acrylic enclosure described below is, as its name suggests, made entirely of acrylic.

To briefly explain the construction method, a mold is created to reflect the shape of the plaster enclosure and an acrylic plate is placed on top. Naturally, a passageway must be created and a means of connecting the plaster enclosure to the acrylic plate is required. Various methods are available, but nuts and bolts are often used. In plaster enclosures, the ideal colony-to-enclosure ratio is ideal. Unless the colony spontaneously discards waste into the foraging area, it will require occasional cleaning. Therefore, the enclosure must be removable. The passageway itself is a bit tricky. It cannot simply be drilled open; it must be connected to the foraging area via a rubber hose. Therefore, a seamless, and preferably removable, connection between the rubber hose and the plaster enclosure is essential. Water is supplied via a watering can or a dropper.

While construction requires labor, the materials themselves are cheaper than jelly cages. Along with toilet paper, this method is widely used by ant enthusiasts because they can freely choose the shape and size they desire. One thing to keep in mind is that if the colony isn't large enough, they may not recognize the entire plaster house as their home and end up dumping trash in empty rooms, increasing the risk of mites and mold infestation. Cleaning up also requires exposing the acrylic, which can lead to ants escaping or stressing the ants. The most important thing is to determine the size of the plaster cage based on the size of the ant colony. This rule applies to other cages as well, but gypsum is particularly prone to mold growth when it absorbs moisture and is difficult to remove.

Gypsum used in ant cages includes (art) gypsum, anhydrite, and superhard gypsum. To differentiate them, pigments are added: regular gypsum is white, anhydrite is typically yellow or orange, and superhard gypsum is pink or light green. Because ants can easily pierce through regular plaster, it's safer to use anhydrite for large specimens and superhard plaster for small specimens. However, excessive moisture can cause plaster to soften, making even superhard plaster ineffective. The price of plaster ranges from art plaster < anhydrite < superhard plaster. The price difference isn't significant.

Concrete is sometimes used as an upgraded version of plaster, but it's extremely heavy and difficult to manufacture, making it not recommended.

Acrylic cage

Because it's difficult for individuals to make, custom orders are typically made at acrylic specialty stores. While the observational capabilities are excellent, comparable to test tubes, they are more expensive than plaster enclosures. Buying them overseas is relatively affordable, so browsing overseas direct purchase sites is a good option.

The risk of mold or mites inside the enclosure is lower than with plaster enclosures, and the interior is kept clean. However, because there's no material to retain water, an oasis or similar device is needed to maintain humidity.

Red cellophane should be used during normal times. Living in a transparent environment can be extremely stressful for these animals.

Jelly farm

This method, first developed by NASA, uses jelly that acts as both soil and food. NASA's version is expensive and counterfeit. The original is blue, but counterfeit versions also come in red.

It's the worst option for colony cultivation. Protein is essential for the queen ant's egg-laying, but jelly lacks it, requiring supplemental food. However, due to the moist nature of the jelly, any leftover food is at risk of rotting, making it difficult to clean up. Furthermore, there's a significant risk of eggs and larvae becoming covered in mold due to over-moistening. This method is simply for the fun of observing worker ants, especially large species. Keep in mind that large worker ants live for two to three years, while smaller ants typically live for three to four months. Even with worker ants, the food is plentiful, and there are no larvae or eggs to care for, making it difficult to observe active ants.

Even the only advantage, easy observation, is inferior to that of acrylic cages, so it is better to avoid using them unless you are only raising single ants.

Star candy can breeding

Seal one end of a star candy (or test tube) tightly with wet cotton or tissue paper (see link for details), then put ants in and seal one end. The water from the cotton will keep the ants' living space moist, and even if the tissue paper dries out, you can just wet the protruding part and everything will be fine. This is the cheapest and simplest of all husbandry methods, but because the star candy container itself is small, it is mainly used for raising new queens or small species. The photo above alone is a temporary shelter for caring for a new queen of a Japanese carpenter ant. When the worker ants start to emerge, it is common to move them to a prepared breeding container or connect the other end of the tissue paper-blocked end to a foraging area.

etc

In addition to the methods above, for arboreal species, adding wood is sometimes used. If you're handy, you can even build a multi-story ant colony, like an apartment. Ants can be raised anywhere, as long as there's a dark, vibration-free environment with adequate humidity and water. Searching often reveals bizarrely shaped ant colonies (such as pyramids). Some even raise them in terrarium-like settings. In these cases, ongoing maintenance is necessary.

When raising a newly collected queen ant, always use a small container. If the container is too large, the new queen will become anxious and won't lay worker ants.

Make sure to buy a container that's airtight. If the container isn't airtight enough, the water will dry out quickly, requiring frequent rehydration. A thick poster paint container is a good choice, and a medicine bottle from a pharmacy is also suitable for collecting. Of course, ventilation is essential.

Frequently startling ants is not good, so to avoid having to open the cage door every time they feed, breeders install "foraging enclosures." This doesn't apply to soil enclosures, but only to artificial enclosures like plaster or acrylic. The foraging enclosure and the enclosure can be connected somehow, typically with a clear hose. Alternatively, the two enclosures can be connected by a hole. Occasionally, a queen ant may reside in the foraging enclosure, but this usually indicates a moisture problem. This suggests the foraging enclosure is more suitable for the ants than the enclosure, suggesting a problem with the enclosure itself. Foraging enclosures are typically made of transparent plastic containers. Installing a large, complex enclosure can keep the ants busy, preventing them from escaping.

The biggest reason beginners fail at keeping ants is "looking in too often." As mentioned earlier, a moderate amount of indifference is key for ants. A new queen typically waits one to two months for the initial colony to form (some species, such as Smith ants, form an initial colony within three weeks). Failure to observe this period and inspecting too frequently can lead to failure. Even for purposes such as mold prevention, inspecting more than once a day is crucial. While blocking light is certainly important, ants often adapt to light the more frequently they are exposed, and alternatives such as red acrylic or cellophane are readily available. The most important factor is to prevent vibrations. Moving the enclosure or shaking it for observation can cause extreme stress in the ants. This stress can lead to the ants eating eggs, larvae, and cocoons, or even to slaughter.

The next problem is "failure to provide moisture." Overwatering typically results in drowning, especially in smaller species, due to water droplets. However, in most cases, it's due to lack of moisture. Ants live underground, where oxygen is scarce. Unless the enclosure is at a level of 1/2 ant-air ratio, they can survive without ventilation holes. They can survive simply by providing oxygen in their foraging areas or opening the enclosure lid once every day or two. They are also highly sensitive to moisture. An entire colony can die instantly. Cannibalism is often driven by thirst. Ants need water and high humidity in their enclosure.

The first pest to watch out for when breeding is mites. They are prone to developing in areas with a lot of waste, such as ant corpses or leftover food. Once they appear, they multiply rapidly, quickly wiping out small colonies. Even if a colony grows to a certain size, a massive infestation is a surefire solution. Before a major impact occurs, the ants should be forcibly relocated and the enclosure thoroughly cleaned. Proper cleaning prevents mites. If they do appear, it's best to encourage springtails to consume them. The second pest to watch out for is mold. Black mold is usually harmless, but yellow mold can disappear in an instant once it appears. Besides that, mites are also a dark horse.

Move

Natural migration is typically used, and this method literally involves letting the ants move on their own. After connecting the original and new nests, the original nest is brightly lit and the new nest is darkened. Ants dislike light, so they consider moving. A few worker ants explore the new nest. If they find it suitable, they move all the way. Sometimes, they even bite and move reluctant ants. This method can take two to three days.

Natural migration utilizes three ant habits:

1. Ants prefer narrow crevices.

2. Ants prefer moisture.

3. Ants prefer darkness.

Taking advantage of ants' preference for narrow spaces, the ants, spread out over a wide area, were guided into the tube.	Taking advantage of ants' preference for dark spaces, they are lured into a plaster cage.

Although there are ways to physically move ants other than natural relocation, this is extremely stressful for the colony and can result in the loss of eggs and larvae, so it should never be done except as a last resort.

hibernation

Except for resident ants and tropical species, most hibernate, entering full hibernation during winter.

Experiments conducted by overseas breeders suggest that hibernation is necessary for all ants living in four-season climates, even under artificial captivity. Experiments with ant colonies of the genus "Kobeki" (Kobeki ant) ​​revealed that worker ants hatched from non-hibernating colonies were significantly smaller, and colonies failed to grow beyond a certain size. Some colonies even experienced a disruption in their circadian rhythm, ceasing egg laying in the summer and entering a dormant state.

While temperatures vary by species, the ideal temperature is 5-12°C (41-59°F). Death can occur at temperatures below freezing. The optimal period is from December to early March. Prolonged hibernation can lead to death. It's important to manage nutrition before hibernation, as ants do not completely cease metabolism during hibernation, so they still expend energy.

There are two methods: refrigeration hibernation and regular hibernation. Refrigeration hibernation involves placing ants in tightly sealed containers and placing them in the refrigerator. If the container is transparent, block out light, open the door slowly, and minimize vibrations if necessary. Naturally, they'll all freeze to death in the freezer.

The simplest way to hibernate is to place a heat pack or electric blanket under the nest, or place the cage in a well-insulated box like a Styrofoam box to maintain the temperature, and then leave it outside (on the veranda).

Once the queen ant has properly completed hibernation and awakened, she usually lays a large number of eggs.

Gathering

New Queen Collection

Collecting new queens can be done in two ways: collecting them while they're still searching for a nesting site and collecting them when they've just built a nest. The latter is almost impossible unless you're a large species, and even for large species, you need to be familiar with the unique burrow shape of the new queen. The former requires careful timing to capture the desired ants. Species that engage in nuptial flights differ depending on the season. Sometimes you need to travel to high altitudes, while other times, you might spot a queen ant by jogging at night and spotting a bright spot like a streetlight. If you're lucky, you might even spot a colony in a flowerpot near your house. Sometimes, a queen ant simply flies into your home. Large, common species like black ants and king ants can even be spotted from the street. Nuptial flight species can be found by carefully examining grassy areas, around trees, or even the grounds of old apartment complexes. Most species that engage in subsequent nuptial flights fly at night, so you can take advantage of the reproductive ants' attraction to light.

Of course, it is better not to catch the so-called 'princess ants' that have just emerged from the burrow and are preparing for their nuptial flight, as they do not mate and therefore do not produce worker ants, unless you plan to raise them by feeding them only one princess ant.

Colony gathering

Collecting colonies is a process that requires a whole new document to cover. Reading through them isn't enough to know everything. Preliminary research to understand the habitat of the ant species will help you collect them.

For large colonies with hundreds of active worker ants, unless there's a queen present, avoid digging through rocks. This is tantamount to destroying a healthy colony, and even the most important queen chamber requires digging at least two meters down. It's natural for ants to place the queen, the center of the colony, in the safest location possible.

There's a convenient method called trap collecting: placing a piece of flooring or rocks on top of a colony and then digging it again after at least a week. The ants will be teeming with ants, and with luck, the queen will be out. Therefore, if you want to catch ants, be sure to diligently dig through rocks, especially when in the mountains. And be sure to clean up after yourself. Put rocks back where they were, and if there's any scattered dirt, at least roughly tidy it up. If you've lifted a rock but don't intend to collect the colony, you should slowly return it to its original location to minimize the risk of crushing the ants.

For tree-dwelling ants, unless you're collecting a new queen, you'll need to cut down the tree yourself, which requires an axe, saw, or a large container large enough to hold the entire tree. Furthermore, you must be the owner of the tree you're cutting down. Carelessly attacking someone else's tree will result in a lawsuit.

Collecting is a matter of luck. The mating flight period for new queens, in particular, varies slightly by region, though the approximate timing varies depending on the species. A tip: if male and female ants emerge from a hole in the nest, mating flight is imminent. Mating flight occurs frequently on clear, humid days (especially after rain). Collecting a colony also requires luck.

When collecting these, always collect from the same nest. This is because ant colonies from different nests, even of the same species, will fight.

If you find an unmated princess ant, don't discard it. Instead, place it in a coop with two or three worker ants. Male ants are easy to find. Alternatively, you can raise only the worker ants, let them produce male ants, and then mate them.

Prey

The best food for ants is sugar, honey, or other carbohydrates. However, the most important food source is protein.

You can provide protein by catching insects, but parasites can be introduced. Once a colony grows to a certain size, a few parasites won't cause it to collapse. However, in the early stages, it's best to provide protein with cut mealworms, as losing even one or two is a waste. Insect jelly or condensed milk can also be used. Homemade food is often liquid, and it's best to use a dropper or syringe when administering liquid food. You can also offer small amounts of chicken, but the meat of non-insects differs in composition, so chicken alone shouldn't be used. Smaller ants struggle to eat thick-skinned insects, so you'll need to cut them up. If you simply give them to ants, they won't eat them and will simply leave them alone. Some commercial ant food products contain vitamin supplements.

However, flies should be avoided unless absolutely necessary. They are a mass of bacteria, and leaving them in the enclosure during the summer will result in a strong odor. If you want to feed them directly, they should be frozen for a long time before feeding them.

Also, you should avoid feeding things like snacks, anchovies, and bread unless absolutely necessary. Snacks are processed foods tailored to human tastes, so they're a smorgasbord of unnecessary chemicals for ants. While seafood like anchovies may be a good food source, their nutritional structure differs from what ants need. Furthermore, ants' mouths aren't designed for chewing, so hard chunks are difficult to eat. If they can't eat them, they have to be discarded, which can lead to mold in the garbage. While bread is considered softer, ants generally won't eat it. Furthermore, these items can become moldy if left out for too long, so it's best to avoid them altogether.

They also eat pine nut oil. In any case, providing them with protein and sugar is sufficient.

Things to watch out for & Tips

• It's easier to raise a mid-stage colony with a certain number of individuals than a small, early-stage colony. However, there are many things to prepare. They need a large enclosure, eat a lot, and poop a lot...
• Sometimes, the corpses of worker ants are dismembered and discarded. This isn't fratricide; they're simply dead, treated for some reason to prevent them from rotting and discarded. Corpses killed for consumption aren't just dismembered.
• Don't neglect disposable spoons, chopsticks, or small, clear plastic containers. It's a good idea to collect them one by one. They all have their uses.
• Regardless of the size of the colony, if the queen is left alone, she is called a loser, and the smaller the colony she was in, the higher the chance of her escaping as a loser. Escaping as a loser is not easy, but nutrition, especially protein supply, is important. If you search for loser queen on the internet, there are many detailed methods. It is good to steal cocoons of the same species from the mountains and feed them, but be careful of the mites that follow. This method can quickly grow a new queen into a nascent colony, but in the case of a new queen, it is easier for the queen to manage if you feed her only 10 to 15 eggs. If a new queen laid eggs but they are gone, it is because she ate the eggs when she judged that she could not raise them due to various environmental problems.
• Even queen ants lay more eggs when fed, but for smaller species, providing food is difficult.
• If the enclosure becomes too small, you may see a few ants clustered around the lid, waiting quietly. This indicates they are attempting to escape. Consider expanding the enclosure or moving.
• If the population is growing too quickly, you can reduce the amount of food you feed.
• Those who frequently observe ants may find themselves in a dilemma: ants hate light, which stresses them out, and if they're kept in a dark place, they won't be able to observe them. Instead, try attaching red film to the enclosure. Only red light will pass through the ant colony, providing a sense of security for the ants while allowing us, as humans, to observe them without inconvenience.
• Ants are extremely sensitive to vibrations, even more so than light. This is especially true for species like black ants, swarm ants, and even ants that dig nests deeper than 5 meters. Prolonged exposure to vibrations can ultimately lead to the queen's unexplained death from stress. Avoid touching the container or applying as little shock as possible. It's like experiencing a magnitude 9.9 earthquake every day.
• Stressing ants can impede colony growth, as they may neglect or eat eggs, larvae, and cocoons. It's best to avoid frequent observation and avoid causing stress if possible.
• Humidity management is crucial. Maintaining the appropriate humidity for each species is essential to encourage ants to keep their enclosure clean. These days, hygrometers are available in sizes as small as erasers, so find one that's right for you.
• When raising ants, the greatest natural enemies are mites, ticks, fungi, infectious diseases, and humans.  Yellow mold is particularly notorious among fungi, and white mold also requires caution. Another extremely rare disease is a disease in which eggs turn red and dissolve. Another rare disease is one in which eggs petrify and turn to powder.